Yesterday was our first full day in France. We started at a lonely planet approved flea market (well, actually we started at a cafe near the flea market where I proposed marriage to my croissant) that had everything from stolen cell phones to trendy clothes to niknaks to antique furniture to vintage chanel jewelry that I was afraid to even look at. I found myself a Paris designed and made dress that I love...despite my discovery when I got back to the hotel that it had 2 flowers each perfectly placed on each butt cheek. Bulls eye!
We then made our way to hilly Montmarte to see the artsy but also red light area of Paris. I loved the little shops and adorable streets. The view up the hill to the Sacre Coeur and then from the Sacre Coeur over the city were equally amazing and definitely worth the hike. We headed back down the hill to find the Museum of Eroticism (once again showing silent black and white porn that I find a bit troubling) and Moulin Rouge (which we learned a bit about, along with other old brothels in Paris at the Museum of Eroticism) and came across an adorable children's store. Margeau needed to buy a gift for a 1 year old and soon learned one of my well kept secrets...for a non-parent, I have an uncanny amount of knowledge about the developmental stages of babies and toddlers.
After Montmarte we were beat and went back to the hotel to regroup and get ready for dinner and the World Cup Final. One of the men who works at our hotel suggested that we head to the Eiffel Tower where the game was being shown in big screen outdoors and where we could also find a cafe for dinner. We hopped on the metro and realized that everyone in Paris was doing the same thing. Have you ever been on a packed, non air conditioned subway car, in Paris, in the summer? Don't. (Today I thought perhaps I forgot to put deodorant on. Then I realized, so did the rest of Paris and I stopped feeling bad. Bleck).
After the subway ride we decided to just sit at a cafe and eat (or actually DRINK) rather than continue to follow the mob. It ended up being the perfect arrangement. We had a fabulous dinner (again, no bad food in Paris yet), plenty of wine, some cheese and dessert all while within view of the Eiffel Tower and all of the people and their flag capes and vuvuzelas. Better yet, Keem and all the various passers by kept us up to speed on the game score and time. We also had great conversation. Thought provoking if you will. For instance, why do most Jewish parents send their children to all/mostly Jewish camps every summer? Why does the Moshulu advertise so heavily to black people in Philly and why are they ok all getting on a boat together?
Once it got dark the Eiffel Tower was totally lit up and occasionally had a few minutes of sparkling. Along with that, drunk soccer fans started trying to make their way home. A woman told our waiter that "The WHOLE metro was closed!!" 2 drunk men each, individually tried to pull up chairs to our table and join us. According to our waiters, we did not have time for speaking with them.
Once Spain scored and won and the crowds increased (as did the police) we saw a look of worry on our waiters' faces. They moved us and all other outside guests indoors, along with all tables and chairs and locked the doors as well as began barricading us inM Margeau asked me if I thought they would turn off the lights too so no one would know we were there. I told her, maybe, it's kind of like being in an "Anne Frank" restaurant.
We finally decided to leave our restaurant and start our walk home along the river. Even though we learned the metro was running, neither of us wanted to be all cramped up with all of Paris again. As we walked we had the most breathtaking view of the Eiffel Tower, all while attempting to avoid the over excited very drunk people still out partying. I found both the tower and the people to be wonderful. Maybe that's because I got used to crowds and rowdiness in Spain but to me it was a wonderful night.
I watched Margeau yesterday go through what I experienced weeks ago: jet lag, confusion in a new place, frustration both with getting lost and with not being able to communicate in a language you think you know (for her, French, for me, Spanish), the crowds and the generally slower pace of life here. I realized that I didn't give myself enough credit for adjusting to all of that, especially with a side of homesickness and lonliness. I gave Margeau my best advice: when you get lost, slow down and appreciate what's around you anywayj; don't let a bad moment or event ruin your whole day, breathe, let go; and be glad each day that you haven't been robbed yet. I can say that today Margeau was 1000% better....especially considering her camera was no where to be found when we woke up this a.m.
So the camera was gone. She had it in the lobby when we got home last night but today, nothing. Margeau asked our hotel where to buy a camera and we were sent to "fnac" (the name of an electronic store in France). When Margeau asked if she could defonitely get a camera there, the response was "Of course! It's a fnac!" And indeed, the fnac was pretty much a best buy. There, Margeau learned another hidden secret of mine...I know a lot about cameras and photography. (I'm actually kicking myself that I only brought my "point n shoot" and not a better camera on this trip).
After solving the camera dilemma we walked up to the Louvre and it was pretty much hell for both of us: crowds, heat, children, and tourists who don't do a good job of walking while photographing. We saw the Mona Lisa, we saw Venus de Milo and then we basically fled and worked our way up L'Opera to do a bit of shopping.
On our way back to the hotel we swung by a market to get some water, wine (2 bottles), bread, cheese, olives and fruit to enjoy in our room - all for under €20. Delicious! We also decided that we can go there each day to get breakfast croissants and "bag lunches" to save some money and allow ourselves to keep splurging on dinner.
Finally, tonight we made our way to the Latin Quarter area for dinner and then wandered to a creperie where the whole world disappeared into my caramel and vanilla ice cream and whipped cream crepe. That area seems like a very cool night spot and I hope we make our way back there before we leave. On our way back to the metro we made a small wrong turn and stumbled upon the absolutely incredible Notre Dame. The building on the cathedral began in 1163 and, looking at it fully lit up tonight, it was surreal to imagine that it has existed for that many hundreds of years. And that is why I like getting lost in Europe...it's like your own little expedition and the further off the plan you go, the better it seems to get.
Heather,
ReplyDeleteI'm really enjoying your recaps. Bulls eye, indeed.
That Cathedral is pretty old, older than america... I think you americans don't actually understand that you are the last page of history, europe is that, is old, that is normal actually, my flat is almost older than america, well, not really, but almost... This has seen from its windows many kings, presidents, dictators, again kings but this time democratic and also presidents, international wars, civil wars, separatists and made invasions of the netherlands africa philiphines and many other places, empires and declives, has seen history, old, and present, this window has even seen Spain to win the world cup and the team to wave the people from the bus... This last bit is even more important than to have conquered almost 35% of the land of the earth at one point of the history, as later the british did too for example :P Every country of europe had a empire, every country of europe has fought with every other country of europe, and now, we are joined and enjoy together beers watching sports or any thing... One advice, don't miss Berlin, you will love it.
ReplyDeleteEnjoy your time! :D